There
are so many beautiful aspects of Moldova. So many things that remind
me, indeed of Kansas, like the rolling hills of NE Kansas, the small
forests of locust trees, wild fruit trees, walnuts, so many of the
flowers and plants are identical to our own heartland. The people too
are in many ways similar to those I met in Kansas – here too,
people care deeply about their faith and family. Neighbors go out of
their way to help neighbors and it seems that everyone knows every
other person of their village. That's one
of the reasons that we Americans stand out so much. We are alien
here, even if we don't have horns and scales. But, that is for a
different blog.
Among
the differences, there is one thing that seems to really stand out
and that is the roads of Moldova. I also believe, that most Moldovans
would agree heartily that many of their roads can barely be named
roads – more like goat trails. On my very first visit to Trușeni,
I was told, „Drumuri în Moldova sunt foarte teribil.” (The
roads in Moldova are very terrible.)
All
summer long I walked up and down this incredibly long and steep hill
in Trușeni. And, in actuality aside from the
brutal heat, or the incredible mud (when it rained) it was a Godsend.
I managed to lose about 22lbs on that road and had a chance to let my
mind settle after long hours of training and to prepare my mind every
day on the way down the hill. And -- I miss this most of all
-- my host brother Gelu and I would make the trek every three days or
so all the way down the hill with several 6-liter bottles, visit the
well and walk back up with them. It was an opportunity for me to
listen to the profundity of his thoughts and challenge his teenage
nihilism. But, more than anything, those treks back and forth made me
feel a part of the scenery, a part of the family, like a real big
brother.
|
A view from my hill into the village of Trușeni. |
Several
Moldovans who either dropped me off, or came to pick me up for events
said it was "the end of geography”.
So
the gods of the road not only stole 22lbs from me (which I was happy
to sacrifice), but they also greedily consumed a nice pair of dress
shoes and a pair of flip flops.
This
particular road of which I speak had deep crevices where the rain
gouged it, and the only walkable area was also where the daring
drivers drove their varied vehicles, often seemingly aiming for the
poor pedestrians that shared the road with me. Pedestrians simply had
to head into the weeds to get out of their way.
It
was nothing to see Bunice (grandmothers) carrying water up the hill,
little kids in their Sunday best, or proud Moldovan women in their
very high-heel shoes going up and down everyday. Bunica asked me for
some glue one day, and I asked her what it was for. She needed it to
glue the soles of her two-week-old Italian-leather shoes back
together after the road chewed on them for awhile.
And
then one day, a grader went up the hill and flattened out all the
crevices. That was cool except for two things: A) it created a chalky
dust that blew everywhere and turned my black shoes (with a mandatory
Moldovan shine) completely gray when it was dry and, B) turned the
road into a quagmire of mud when it rained. Naturally, the mud
completely destroyed shoes, so a friend of my host family sent a
truckload of building materials and had them deposited in the middle
of the road. Gelu and I became instant muncitori [moon-chee-tor]
(workers) and shoveled and hauled brick, plaster and assorted
poly-styrene to create a path for the family to step on after the
rains. This was hard but extremely gratifying work. Somehow, knowing
that I was having a direct positive impact on the welfare of my
host-family's feet and shoes made me feel like a thousand bucks.
And... I felt somehow more like a real Peace Corps volunteer, helping
to build a road.
I
asked a Moldovan engineer if anything would be done about the roads
in Moldova or Trușeni, and he simply shrugged his
shoulders and said there was little the country could do. This was
simply how it is in Moldova. There are more important things upon
which to focus. So, the roads of Moldova will continue to be bad, but
somehow they make the people a little more genuine, a little more
neighborly, and a little more understanding of each other as they
have a common complaint.